Introduction
Dunkeld is where the Highlands begin. The town sits on the River Tay at the southern edge of the Highland Line, cathedral ruins overlooking the water, ancient larch and oak woodland pressing in from every direction, and a high street of independent businesses that has stayed genuinely good.
The Hermitage woodland walk, a mile up the road, is one of Perthshire's finest, waterfalls, Douglas Firs of extraordinary height, and Ossian's Hall perched above the falls. Dunkeld Cathedral dates to the 12th century and operates as a ruin-and-still-functioning church combination that only Scotland seems to produce.
Aran Bakery serves excellent pastries and coffee. The Taybank is an essential live music pub on the riverside. A very good one-night stop between Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
Getting There
On the A9, about an hour north of Edinburgh. Trains from Edinburgh and Perth stop at Birnam, a short walk across the bridge. Ideal base for Perthshire and southern Cairngorms exploration.
Areas to Know
Cathedral Street and Atholl Street form the main commercial area. The riverside walk connects the cathedral to the Tay Bridge. Hermitage is 1.5 miles northwest, drive or cycle.
