Edinbane Lodge is the quieter, less-celebrated alternative to The Three Chimneys and, depending on your priorities, the better option. The building is a 16th-century hunting lodge with low ceilings and open fires that create a warmth no amount of interior design can manufacture. The food is built around Skye seafood, langoustines, scallops, sea trout, sourced from local boats.
The wine list is serious without being aggressive about it. The rooms upstairs, if you're staying, are excellent. The village of Edinbane itself barely exists, which means the lodge is the kind of find that doesn't show up in travel magazines until someone ruins it. It hasn't been ruined yet.