Overview
The Kitchin opened in Leith in 2006, earned its Michelin star the following year, and has held it consistently since. Chef-patron Tom Kitchin, trained under Pierre Koffmann and Guy Savoy, among others, built the restaurant around a philosophy he calls "from nature to plate": the best Scottish seasonal ingredients, cooked with classical French technique, expressed in a way that reflects where you are.
This means the menu changes with what's available rather than with what's convenient. In May, there'll be Scottish langoustines and asparagus. In autumn, game and root vegetables. In winter, aged beef and deep shellfish. The kitchen has relationships with specific Scottish producers and fishermen and takes those relationships seriously.
The Food
The cooking is technical and accomplished without being cold. This is not minimalist, presentation-over-flavour fine dining, there's generosity in the portions and warmth in the flavours. The langoustines, when in season, are a benchmark: sweet, barely touched, served in ways that emphasise what they already are rather than transforming them into something else.
The tasting menu (six to eight courses) is the best way to experience the full range of what the kitchen is doing. À la carte is available and allows for a shorter, slightly less ceremonious version of the same quality.
The wine list is serious and the sommelier team knowledgeable. The pairing is worth doing if you're going for the full tasting menu.
The Setting
Commercial Quay in Leith is a converted Victorian warehouse with the Water of Leith running past. The restaurant occupies a converted whisky warehouse, stone walls, warm light, a quiet formality that never shades into stuffiness. Service is attentive and well-paced.
Leith itself is worth time before or after dinner, the Shore area along the waterfront has excellent bars and the neighbourhood has a particular atmosphere that's distinct from Edinburgh's Old Town.
Practical Notes
- Booking essential, often several weeks ahead for weekend evenings.
- Leith is about 3km from the city centre, a taxi is easiest, or Lothian Buses run frequently.
- Dress code is smart casual; the room leans formal, so dress to match.
- Dietary requirements accommodated with advance notice.
- Lunch is available and more affordable, a good option if the full dinner investment is prohibitive.